What is a Joe Cell?

A Joe Cell is an electrolysis cell built with concentric stainless steel pipes. In one configuration, the pipes have diameters of 1, 2, 3, and 4 inches. Sometimes a five-inch pipe is also included. Different theories hold that the cylinders should be between 4" and 10" long. There are many theories of how the cell works. Among those who believe in Orgone energy, the Joe Cell is believed to be an Orgone Accumulator.

An operating cell progresses through a series of stages, the first of which is simple electrolysis, the second is referred to as the seeding stage, in which the cell builds up a charge in the water, which eventually reaches a point where the cell will run an engine. There are higher stages that supposedly can be achieved. For example, in stage 4 the cell is said to exhibit antigravity effects that reduce the weight of the vehicle in which the cell is installed.

Once the water in the cell is sufficiently "charged," the cell can continue to operate with no external source of electric power.

In one report, the cell is said to generate a gas that energetically implodes when ignited. The tube that conveys this gas away from the cell is connected to a blind fitting or blank plug on the housing of the vehicle's carburetor. This means that there is no physical opening through this fitting into the interior of the carburetor or the interior of the intake manifold. The author believed that the mysterious gas must therefore possess the ability to pass THROUGH the metal of the carburetor housing to reach the interior of the engine. The author did not address the obvious question of why much of the gas does not escape through the walls of the tube before it even reaches the carburetor.

Top of Joe Cell Pack

Another report says that the cell should be connected via an aluminum tube to a location on the engine block close to a water passage. It will then "charge" the engine's coolant water. The charged water is then believed to somehow provide the energy to run the engine.

A conventional gasoline-powered vehicle experiences explosions inside its engine, but a Joe cell-powered vehicle experiences implosions. Therefore the timing must be significantly advanced so the spark occurs during the compression stroke. A running engine will get cold rather than hot. An engine powered by a well-made Joe cell can be idled down to 1 or 2 rpm, and could easily accelerate to 18,000 rpm if the valvetrain, pistons and rods were able to withstand the stresses. Joe cells are notorious for messing up a car's electronic systems, so it is a bad idea to couple a cell with an electronically fuel-injected engine.

Attributes

• The water in the cell is not consumed.
• The cell runs cold to the touch.
• It takes a period of time before the engine will run from the cell. It then has an erratic power output and works in an intermittent fashion.
• When the cell is removed from the car, the engine takes an appreciable time to return to "normal" and run from the original fuel.
• If the cell is left in the car for a long period, the engine become "charged". From this point, the cell is not required for the motor to run.
• All spark plug leads can be removed and the engine will still run as long as the ignition coil and distributor remain functional.
• The output of the cell does not have to be connected to the internals of the engine. A close external coupling will do.
• The cell requires the "charging" of the water to work.
• The requires a specific style of construction, little understood by most constructors.
• The source of power for the cell and its use has great value for some individuals. These individuals are creating misinformation, cloaking operations and inducing fear in cell constructors.
• Human presence can affect the operation of the cell in a positive or negative way.

FUEL Cell Material Requirements

The entire cell needs to be pressurized so the tolerances need to be tight.

All materials need to be 316L Stainless Steel at least 1/16" thickness and diamagnetic in nature tested using a rare earth magnet.

Cutting needs to be by a method that will not heat the metal or leave color band marks from cutting. One method would be with a liquid cooled band saw.

Cylinders are 316L Stainless Steel seamless tubing.

1 each : 1 inch OD by 8 inches long

1 each : 2 inch OD by 8 inches long

1 each : 3 inch OD by 8 inches long

1 each : 4 inch OD by 8 inches long

1 each : 5 inch OD by 10 inches long

On looking at the Web on subjects related to the Joe cell, two things crop up over and over. Namely, the incorrect use of information as supplied in my manual and the resultant cries of ‘I cannot get stage three, help!’. The cloud screens of misinformation, wild unsubstantiated guesses and sheer pie in the sky guess work does not help the above matter.

Please let me try to tell you as to how I see the cell information problem.

For obvious reasons, the expert on the Joe cell is Joe! However, as Joe has not published any material or authorised any photographs or videos, the information from the horses mouth is zero.

So what do we do? Well, for a start, we must be very careful that we do not listen to information from the other end of the horse. With Joe we have a couple of options:

1. Visit Joe and look, learn and listen. Great! many people have done that. Some actually have stayed with Joe for periods as long as 9 months! On leaving Joe, they were not able to replicate what Joe can do.

2. Ring Joe up on the phone and have a talk. Great as well. Unfortunately people have talked to Joe for hours on end, and although they heard plenty, were still not able to replicate Joe’s work.

Okay, what gives? How come all these thousands of visitors ( yes, that figure is correct as Joe keeps a visitors book ), that are keen and eager cannot duplicate what Joe has shown them or told them on the phone?

Six options:

1. Joe is a fake, the cell is a dud.

2. Joe is deliberately laying down a smoke screen.

3. All the visitors are stupid and cannot follow simple instructions.

4. Joe is a very special person and no one else has his special vibes.

5. The cell will only work at Joe’s place due to a ley line, a space warp or similar.

6. There is a set of special design procedures that Joe is not telling anybody about.

From the above list, and after spending 8 years full time on the subject, I can tell you that you can eliminate completely, option 1, 3 and 5.

Option 2 and 6 are a FACT! Option 4 is only partially true.

Where does the above analysis leave us?

The good news is, that if you know the special procedures required to make and start the cell and if you have the right ‘ polarity ’ when in close proximity to the cell, there is no reason why you cannot get a cell to stage 3.

Unfortunately life is not that easy, I still believe the Y factor is a variable to consider. As I am not privy to the Joe and Dennis secrets, I will assume that the polarity of the person is important at least in the early seeding stages of the cell.

Joe has stated that the location and the polarity of the person does play a role, Dennis is saying that he has the problem licked. I am saying that I do not know, thus I am playing it safe by warning you that if all else fails check your location and your polarity. Both those topics are covered in my manual if you require further information.

Of course when and if Joe and Dennis finally take pity on us, and lay their cards on the table, the whole Y factor issue should be resolved.

I am not holding my breath however, as anal retentives have reasons to be retentive.

As this paper is headed ‘ Cell Problems ’, I will not cover problems in the transfer stages or the modifications required to the ‘ consuming ’ device. I will concentrate on the cell only.

The above title is somewhat of a misnomer as I will describe how to make a stage 3 cell. If you do not follow the instructions, then you can pin point the problem to the step that you did not follow.

I am telling you what I know will work. If you decide to take short cuts with my suggestions, fine, but don’t come to me when your cell doesn’t work!

In the following sub-headings I have covered the locations where the problem may reside and I have suggested various options.

Location --- Strictly not cell related, so see my manual.

The individual --- As above.

Cylinders and case material --- As we are employing electrolysis, it would be logical to employ a material that is largely immune to the actions of the electrolysis process. After many tests, and including Joe’s recommendations, stainless steel is the logical choice. All other material like copper, brass and aluminium are interactive.

Joe has suggested food grade non-magnetic steel as the ‘ right ’ one. This advice is a little nebulous, but it points us to the 300 series of stainless steels and logically the choice is out of 304, 316 and 316L.

The dairy industry in Australia ( this is where Joe obtained his steel ) uses 304. Lately Joe has suggested 316 non-magnetic, food grade.

I personally have found very good results with 316L.

I would suggest to you that 304 or 316 are both fine, the points that are important is the non-magnetic aspects of the material and the neutrality to electrolysis.

The next stage is to find the stainless and make sure that we buy the correct type.

Where I am, I can simply go for a 20 mile drive and this will allow me to have a scrounge at several scrap metal dealers. Of course you may not be so lucky, you may have to buy it new, ouch.

A couple of years ago, I was involved in the testing of all possible stainless steels for a potential mass producer of the cell for the world market. Now this was a chance of a life time for me as I did not have to pay the many thousands of dollars that were required to purchase a length of each type ( including 316S designed for the nuclear industry, very beautiful material indeed ).

After 7 months of testing, I made some very valuable conclusions that I want to share with you.

* Most stainless has a seam along the entire length that is either a straight or spiral weld. The quality of this weld varies greatly as well as the uniformity of the thickness of the tube on the weld.

* It is very hard to find seamless stainless. This converts to very expensive, and you really do not need it.

* If the stainless is wrapped in a plastic sleeve or if it has the type number stamped on it at regular intervals, you will find that this type has a better seam weld.

* If you can see a darker weld colour along the seam, I would suggest that you test it thoroughly before you pay for it.

* If you can feel that the thickness of the tube is greater on the weld compared to the rest of the tube, again be very wary.

* If as you rotate the tube in your hand, you can feel that it is not truly circular, again be wary. You could use a pair of callipers or similar if you do not trust your feel. The tube should be circular to very close limits.

* I was unable to find a good tube in all the cheaper Asian imported material even though they had a mirror finish. You have been warned!

To put the above together, I would suggest that you only buy top grade stainless AFTER you have tested it with your magnet.

What magnet you say?

All Joe cell experimenters have a rare earth magnet on a piece of string or Nylon, sheesh.

The first thing that you learn about this magnet is that it loves to erase credit cards, so do the obvious, keep it well away from your wallet and similar.

I have made a keeper for mine, that joins the North and South poles together and this reduces the stray fields considerably whilst I carry it.

If you dangle the magnet on about a foot of line, you will notice that it will be gently attracted to some areas of the tube, but rather more to the seam. If it sticks to the seam and stays there supporting its own weight, that tube is NOT suitable! I don’t care if you are going to heat treat it or even if you get the Pope to bless it, give it a miss.

Mild attraction, is okay as long as there is no areas that have patches of strong attraction. Remember, I am talking about checking the whole damn length and not just doing a ten second swing to impress the guy in the shop. Yes, it is a pain in the butt and may take you at least half an hour ( for a whole cell set ) and by this time any staff member would have long left, leaving you with a questioning look. <g>

So to conclude this section, get the good grade and test it to make sure it is the good grade.

Making the Cell ---

This involves cutting, polishing and joining operations. Any of these steps may cause irreversible damage to your investment, so think about it.

Cutting can be performed with a bi-metal blade in a hacksaw, with an angle grinder and a metal cutting wheel or with a lathe. The secret is to keep the heat way, way down. If the cutting process will generate heat ( as with the angle grinder ), leave a ¼ inch spare in length and trim to size on a lathe.

Nice and slow with a bi-metal blade in a hack saw will do the job.

I would suggest that in all cases, the cylinders are finished to size on a lathe as this is the only easy method of assuring that all the cylinders will have two parallel and flat faces, and all tubes will be the same length.

The overall match in length is not that critical, a few thou here to there does not matter! On assembly you simply make sure that the tops are all level and the bottom length difference is not that critical.

The next step is the polishing. Before moving to that step again check your tubes for any extra magnetism, ALL OVER! It this has not changed, move on to the polishing.

The rules of polishing are simple, the smoother the better, the less heat the better.

The less the polish on the surface the less the efficiency of the cell, but it will still work.

A mirror finish inside and out is great, but I for one have better things to do in life, however if you have the tools and the inclination and the time go for it.

I spin my cylinders in a lathe and use a 360 grit emery cloth until all major scratch marks are removed and if you held a screw driver ( or similar ) right next to it you can see the reflection. At no stage are my tubes that smooth that I can use them as a mirror for shaving. Don’t laugh, I have seen tubes like that from others. Beautiful, but they did not work!

Make sure that you polish in a circular sweep ( around the tube ) and not up and down the length.

You do not want any criss-cross marks at all.

When you are happy with these two operations, move on. If you have used any high speed polishing method that generated heat then, yep, check them all over for a change in their magnetic effects.

The joints on the outer casings are super important and the source of MOST failures of the cell to go to stage three. As you can surmise, the cylinder to cone and the cone to outlet adaptor are the two joints that will stop the cell dead.

A weld at either of these spots will create a lovely ring of heavily magnetised metal and stop the cell dead from being able to transfer the ‘ force ’ to where you want it.

Have a real serious think here before you hit these areas with your arc welder designed for welding battle ships.

Unfortunately I cannot enclose pictures with this paper, but my manual has a few of the related photos but not enough to do justice to the subject.

I will have to work out some way of getting about 6o M/bytes of photos onto a suitable site. Anyway back to the subject at hand.

Joe and I recommend no welding at these critical areas. This makes it makes it much harder as far as construction is concerned, but it is the only 100% guaranteed method of not introducing a magnetic change at these critical areas.

The bottom joint to the flat base or cone or sphere is nowhere near as sensitive.

I have made over 30 cells and all are different. I have featured a cell in the manual, ( Old Trusty ) that breaks most of the above rules, there are always exceptions to rules as after all rules are made to be broken, WHEN you know what you are doing that is.

There are many ways of holding two pieces of metal at a butt joint without welding or brazing or even soldering.

What you want is a seamless transition of tube inner diameter to cone and then to your outlet. Many ways of doing this, and we have the great advantage that the joint is not under any great pressure and thus welding is not mandatory.

I will again stress that the less heat used on the joint, the greater is your guarantee of success.

In descending order of preference of a joining method,( the lower the better );

oxy. acetylene welding, oxy acetylene brazing, arc welding, Mig welding, soldering, cold welding ( chemical two packs ), Tig welding, threaded joint, press fit joint, butt joint with outer support sleeve, butt joint and Sikaflex, one piece cell casing.

From the above as you can see, the top joint is permanent and access should be provided via the bottom joint for maintenance operations.

The central bolt fixture:

The bolt, washers and nut must also be compatible material and also must not exhibit magnetic anomalies.

Whatever method you decide on to join the bolt to the inside of the one inch tube, please observe the following;

* The bottom of the bolt head must be at least 1/8 of an inch inside the tube.

* Do not weld the bolt to the tube, a press fit is the way to go.

* Make sure that there are gaps for water circulation in and out the bottom of the tube.

* Design your bolt fixture so that the neutrals are at least ½ inch off the bottom of the cell ( that is if you are using a flat bottom plate )

* Insulate the bolt body from under the bolt head to your inner exit washer. Nylon or similar type tubing is fine.

The insulators:

Many insulators have been tried, many insulators have failed!

If the insulator leaves a pitted or burned mark where it is wedged against the cylinders, it is shorting out, It is no good, throw it out! I am not talking about shorting out as in Ohms law and low resistance. I am talking about a shunt to a very high frequency field!

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY:

One of the greatest causes of cell failures is the insulators. The insulators have to be compatible with your cell design, the water and the chemicals that are in the water. I do not mean deliberate chemicals that you put in. I mean the chemicals that are already in there.

For example, the cell does generate ozone. Ozone mixed with air will make nitric acid ( reaction with the nitrogen ). Nitric acid is very chewy stuff.

I am sick to death of people saying that Joe does not use electrolyte. Yes, that is true, I also do not use electrolyte in some of my cells. However, Joe’s stream water is full of fertiliser from the adjacent farming and so his water does have electrolyser in it even though he does not add it himself.

Just think about it please, Joe can pass 25 amps at 12 volts through his cell! No electrolyser? Yeah right!

All natural water has chemicals in it, and this chemistry will reduce the resistance ( conductance ) of the water and thus increase the current flow.

Water that does not have electrolyte in it ( artificially made water ), has such a high resistance ,that at 12 volts, you would get hardly any current flow, very low electrolysis and thus no bubbles.

Bubbles mean ( in this instance ) electrolysis and electrolysis means current flow and current flow means chemicals!

Back to the insulators. <g> If the metal shows sign of corrosion at the insulator location, you are using the wrong insulators. Throw them away.

If the insulators have gone all slimy and or mushie, you are using the wrong insulators. Throw them away.

Some insulators that have ‘ worked ’ for me and others are;

* Red chemical rubber bottle stoppers. can make the water go red, I don’t like them.

* The early version of traffic counting air hose, the present one is useless.

* The black hose used for oxygen for welding. Must be the old type without the ribbing!

* Various type of glue sticks. Tend to be too soft.

* Various types of rubber lines as used in cars. beware, some are no good. Not worth the bother.

* The use of little mica washers on each side of the insulating rubbers. These are normally used as insulators for transistors when the are mounted on a heat sink. Far better to use the right insulators and thus not have to fiddle around with mica as well.

* Ebonite rod shaped to size. My preference.

* Glass marbles. Very hard to put in, but when in, they do a fair job.

* Silicone hose as used in hospitals and laboratories ( the clear stuff ). Works well although a little too soft.

* Sikaflex. Home made and Joe’s preference. Works as well but no better to ebonite in my cells.

If you get a cartridge of Sikaflex ( marine grade, white ) and allow the Sikaflex to cure in the nozzle, you can remove this plug and cut it up for a couple of insulators. I am sure that with a bit of imagination you can work out a better way of making a whole stick at a time.

When inserting the insulators, place them in three radial rows about 120 degrees apart and about a ¼ inch down from the top and bottom ends of the cylinders.

The Water:

The subject is covered in depth in my manual, so what more can I say that may help?

I must repeat, do not use tap water or any water that has chlorine, fluoride, alum, lime or similar additives in it. It will not work and will also cover your cylinders with oxides and thus stop the cell from ever going stage 3, guaranteed

I only use spring or rain water, or in desperation a water called Noble water and sold in supermarkets in Australia. The Noble water is guaranteed chemical free and it works to a degree but is a very slow starter and seems to die or as Joe say’s ‘ go off ’ quite easily.

I have no problems in getting a cell to stage three with rain or spring water.

My problems is keeping it at that stage.

Try an use fresh water and do not store it in the sun or in plastic containers. Imagine that you are going to drink it and treat it in that fashion. If you would not drink it yourself, why do you except the cell to like it?

Power Application:

The rules are simple, do not cook the cell, do not overcharge, do not use to much current.

When I wrote my manual, I tried to set some sort of standard that all cell experimenters could follow and thus we could all compare notes.

Hah, now that was wishful thinking!

The standard came from tests by Joe. For example, when he ran his cell on his son’s Escort, he had an ammeter in series with the cell and it was indicating 1.26 amps.

So, 12 volts and 1 amp seemed like a nice all round figure to use as a standard. However, as I soon found out, this information was translated in so many different rules and methodologies by all and sundry, that any attempt to maintain some sort of uniformity was a waste of time.

This must reflect normal human nature as we can see by simply looking at all the different standards in the audio and video fields to name a couple.

Since those days I have changed my recommendations to allow all people to do their own thing.

Simply stated, you should pass about a ¼ to q ½ of an amp through your cell with NO electrolyte. If you do not see some action with 2 minutes, turn if off and look for a problem.

I repeat, there is no point in going on, if it has not shown signs of action in 2 minutes, it never will.

HOWEVER --- and this is a very important fact --- The cell may behave differently every time you reapply the power. Only a stable cell ( fairly rare creature ) will behave the same way on each power reapplication.

To repeat the above, an unstable cell may produce different behaviours each time you reapply the power. A stable cell will start in the same mode each time.

Depending on the conductivity of the water, you may find that you will need up to 250 volts to get this ¼ to ½ amp current flow. I have found that generally 75 volts is a good ball park figure with my types of water.

Obviously if you want to use the cell in a car, you will have to play with the electrolyte as mentioned in my manual, as you have no control on the voltage ( about 14.9 volts is as high as you will get ).

On the power supply topic, please read my paper on negative electricity, as this is the requirement for the stage 4 cell. At this time , I have been unable to make one, and as Joe is not telling, it may take me a bit longer to come up with the design.

At the moment I am working on a Tesla switch ( Bedini two capacitor concept ) as a power supply for the cell. I will let you all know if I come up with something.

Cell Observation:

Some things to look for in a stage 3 cell:

* All cylinders should stay clean, on BOTH sides.

* The cell will ‘ remove ’ out of the water what it does not want . This ‘ scum ’ should be either at the top or bottom of the cell and not on the cylinders.

* You should filter this ‘ scum ’ out of the water and keep reusing the water that the cell is converting. Only top it up, do not replace it unless you are not getting anywhere with the cell.

* You should see very small bubbles rising from both side of the cylinders.

* The top surface of the water should develop an oily type film (surface tension). This will only occur if you keep the water at the right level.

The right level is meniscus height or just high enough water for the bubbles to freely flow on the total surface of the water. Obviously you should keep the cell level to achieve this.

* The cell should never get hot or even warm.

* On turning the power off, the tiny bubbles should form little islands that may be turning in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction or some one way and others the opposite way.

* The bubbles should not simply rise to the surface. You should see the tiny bubbles following eddies and meandering all over the place. For example they may be travelling in one direction between one set of neutrals and travelling the opposite direction in the next gap.

* When the cell is charged you will notice a North/South magnetisation in the vertical plane. This is normal and a good sign. On removal of the water this field should disappear.

The above is what I do and what I have observed with my stage 3 cells. You should do and see very similar results. If not, go through my points and see where the discrepancy is. That may be your problem.

Good luck and don’t give up, if I can do it so can you, my only trick is persistence. Stick with one cell until you are sure that it is faulty, there is no point in changing things just for the sake of changes.

The above cell does work and has worked for many. After you are familiar with the above basic cell, then and only then move into the construction of the specialised versions.

Learn to walk before you attempt to run, saves you from falling flat on your face.

According to Joe, both sides of the neutrals have to be in equilibrium. To achieve this, he drives the negative to the positive and the positive to the negative.

In the above, Joe’s use of the word drive indicates his observation of the bubbles and water formation as he manipulates the applied potential’s on the various cylinders, thus he is ‘ driving ’ them.

Comment:

A longer term means of observing these ‘ potential’s ’ on the plates is observing the build up ( or lack thereof ) of an oxide or ‘ colour ’ on the surface of the plates.

As mentioned in my manual, the cylinders should stay clean on a working cell. The danger of this statement is, that a shorted or incorrectly functioning cylinder will also display this characteristic.

However, by the observation of the resultant bubbles, water forms and of course the cell function, you will easily distinguish between good and bad cylinders.

METHOD

1. Connect your negative to the inner, central tube.

2. Connect your positive to the first neutral ( next tube ).

3. Shift the positive from the first neutral to the second neutral.

4. Continue this process until your positive is now on the outer tube ( or container of the cell )

Notes:

A. --- Leave the potential on the tubes until you obtain the ‘ right ’ bubble production but no longer than 1 minute no matter what the outcome. If it does not ‘ work ’, look for problems elsewhere.

B. --- Clip your leads so that the negative connection is always in line , but as far apart as possible from the positive connection. For example, clip the negative to one end of the one inch tube and the positive to the diametrically opposite end of the two inch ( next ) tube.

C. --- You can swap and change the above sequence and polarities until you achieve the desired effect, BUT always end up with the negative to the central tube and positive to the outer.

D. --- The ‘ right ’ bubble formation is unfortunately an observational skill that comes with a lot of practice, and would be next to impossible to write in words.

For beginners, you will have to use the very crude method of igniting the bubbles to differentiate amongst the various gas types until you get the ‘ eye ’ to see.

This note is required at this time, as there seems to be quite a fair bit of disinformation ( deliberate or otherwise ) circulation on the Web.

Please read my lips, hear and listen, no matter if you live on the North pole, South pole or anywhere in between, on completion of start up, you must leave the negative connection to the middle of the cell, ( the most inner tube ).

Now there seems to be many ‘ advisers ’ recommending negative to the outer tube ( case ), as they get pretty bubbles, vortex actions and similar. That is all great, BUT do they have a working cell?

No, they do not, I can guarantee it, as you must have the negative to the central tube to do so.

I will give you a very short reason, so at least you will tend to believe me, but in reality you have free will and you can do what you like. I am merely an advisory sign, to be used as you see fit.

Electricity is always trying to destroy it’s dipole, it is constantly trying to eliminate the positive and negative potential differential. Magnetism on the contrary is forever trying to establish a North and South magnetic pole differential ( as far apart as possible ). This is an endless and balanced battle between electricity and magnetism that has been going on since the start of creation.

As a result of this ‘ battle ’, negative is a contractive energy and positive is an expanding energy. As we are trying to accumulate a force and thus create a ‘ frequency ’ with our cells, it is obvious ( to me at least ) that the contracting force should be inside and the expanding force on the outside. How else can you possibly draw anything in?

Reverse the potential’s and positive ( the expanding force ) in trapped in the middle of the cell by the contracting negative force. Not the way to go! No wonder that you have pretty signs of this battle. Similar to the sign ( smell ) that you get when you drive your car with your handbrake on.

Hybrid Cell

It has a 5" outer case but only 2" and 3" neutrals, and the negative cylinder in the centre of course.

The bubbles are good Stage 2 bubbles. This shot is taken 10 minutes after I took the power off. The cell had had one application of power (24 volts at .4 amp) for 90 seconds. That is right. One 90 second charge to get to stage2. Everyone can do this if the cell is built properly. The cell now only gets 12 volts for 3 minutes twice a day, and the water is filtered daily.

Hybrid? Mark 3 case, Mark 4 internals. 24 volts and no vinegar because my juvenile living water is just slightly alkaline.

These are the components of a typical Mark 4 orgone accumulating cell. Note the rubber insulator/spacers beside top dome with outlet

Please note the 1" cathode cylinder with ss threaded rod terminal/mounting bolt insulated in situ in bottom dome. As the top and bottom domes are 2" deep, the length of outer case (positive) is shortened to 8". The bottom level of the nest of negative and neutral cylinders will be 1/2" lower than the level of the 4" outer case when it is press fitted to the bottom dome.

All cylinders are seamless (no welds) and the domes have been machined for a very tight press fit onto 4" outer case. The top dome has also been machined for a tight press fit of the 90 degree 1" ss bend. The aim has been to build a cell without welds.

Before I wade into the subject proper, let me remind you that maybe your concept of electricity as taught in school may be a little suspect. For example, we talk of electric generators. This conjures the image of electricity being made. So if you imagine the normal scenario of a city using a remotely located power ‘ generator’, located at some distance from the city ( this may be many miles away ), it implies that the ‘ generated ’electron has to travel to the city to be utilised.

Further, as most power generators now utilise alternating current ( AC ), that means that the polarity is positive for one ½ cycle and negative for the other ½ cycle. We now have a problem.

We have the ludicrous situation where our poor electron ( after being generated ), leaves the country and starts it’s trip toward the big smoke. But due to distance, it does not get there as the voltage has been reversed ( for the other half cycle ) and our poor little traveller has to return to the power station! Thus no power gets to the city if the ‘ generator ’ is of a sufficient distance from the load ( or consuming device ).

Obviously something wrong with the generator theory somewhere.

Let me say from the outset, that electricity cannot be made or used up by man. Electricity is not a substance as such, and you may have to rethink some of the accepted views.

There is a ‘ magic ’ triangle that is made up of electricity, magnetism and gravity.

The Joe cell can tap into this triangle ( imagine the cell energy as being in the middle of the triangle ) and changing the balance of the ‘ sides ’ can thus have full control of transmutation, gravity and many other effects.

If you imagine the cell ‘ force ’ as a very high frequency AC voltage, ( NOT A GAS! ) you may realise that a power supply designed to ‘ fill ’ the cell with this type of energy would be a far superior way to go as compared to a conventional power supply or a standard car battery that has a far more meagre contribution of this type of ‘ electricity’.

Never-the-less, you can make a very good cell indeed without resorting to a special power supply.

Before I forget, let me again remind you that when Joe is talking about a negative field around the outside of the cell, he is not talking about placing your negative lead to the outer container. He is referring to ‘ true negative ’ or negative electricity, NOT to be confused with standard electrical potential’s of positive and negative.

Thus after finishing with your start up procedures on the cell ( see related paper ), ALWAYS finish with the negative lead connected to the central ( inner ) cylinder.

As said many times, there are no exception to this rule, on this planet at least. <g>

Nuclei with a positive charge and electrons with a negative charge has long been regarded as the

‘ norm ’ and is how present science see the world and the matter that it is composed of.

However, as we live in an illusionary world , reality is sometimes the direct opposite of what our far from perfect senses relay to us as concrete facts.

For example, we all ‘ know ’ that the railway lines do not really meet at the distant horizon, and we also ‘ know ’ that a city floating in the air is merely a mirage.

Thus we also ‘ know ’ that there is only one type of electricity, the normal one that we all use and have measured with test equipment ad nauseam.

But what if there are in actuality negative nuclei and positive electrons ( positrons )? Another parallel so called world, a mirror of all that we see as normal and thus ‘ fact ’. Yes, we would have atoms and the mirror anti-atoms, and these would form anti-molecules and finally anti-life. Exactly the same as we see normality. but simply a mirror image.

Of course this would also apply to electrical charge, magnetism, etc.

Before you say that all this is old news and that I should come up to speed, let me say that I am aware of the particles made by particle accelerators such as at CERN in Geneva, and yes, I am also aware of the use of positrons as in the technique called PET ( positron emission tomography ). And I have read the works of P. A. M. Dirac and his famous quantum theory calculations in 1929.

Yes, it was Dirac who postulated that particles and antiparticles have identical masses but opposite charges.

When these little fellows get to meet, they annihilate each other and as a result charges are neutralised and the masses are converted to energy.

Please remember this fact for my theory section at the end of this paper.

This energy can be X-ray photons, gamma rays or mesons.

Whilst on the subject and to put some perspective to the energies involved, let me quote you an example. The rate at which solar energy ( solar radiant power or luminosity ) reaches the Earth is about one kilowatt on each square meter. This is very useful and useable power indeed, and also goes to show the very poor efficiency of present day solar panels.

Back to the subject. What has all this to do with the cell and who really cares?

Please be patient, a brick wall is erected a brick at a time. <g>

So, what do we know about negative electricity in relation to the Joe cell?

Of course we have Joe’s words on the topic as relayed to us by his many visitors, but as this is the talk of the ‘ inventor ’, we really require some other ‘ proof ’ that is independent of possible bias or deliberate inaccuracy.

At this point, let me remind the reader that Joe has not put one word on paper ( over a 10 year period ), or allowed one photograph to be taken ( not from lack of asking by myself and others ), that may be used to help resolve the dilemma.

On the contrary, Joe has gone to great lengths to hide his ‘ secret ’, by evading the topic or by giving nonsensical answers to questions and sometimes even laying down deliberate smoke screens to further confuse the issue. He obviously has his reasons and I respect his right not to share his discoveries with us. God bless you Joe.

In passing, the videos that are in circulation are poor quality videos made by amateurs for friends, and that have been circulated without Joe’s consent.

As such it has been left to a few to try to convert the crumbs that fall from Joe’s table into a loaf of bread that can feed the rest of the world.

As mentioned at the start, positrons are a fact of life in the scientific community, but of course the scientific community will not recognise the Joe cell. In fact talk about the cell in scientific circles will guarantee a belly laugh, scorn or simply result in you being ostracised and treated similar to a person who is reporting on a UFO sighting.

On the other hand, things are very different amongst the clandestine research scientists, but then of course these dudes are not going to come out in public, put their arm around you and declare on national TV that you are on the right track. Sorry, life was not meant to be easy.

Unfortunately I have to resort to various ‘ proofs ’ that result from many experiments performed by ‘ pseudo scientist ’. This is meant to be a derogatory term as used by the ‘ certified experts ’ as a description of thousands of honest and dedicated self taught individuals that devote their whole lives to a radical project, ( usually with no help or money ) but usually with very noble aims.

My favourite and a very enlightened individual whose work ( like Tesla ) has not received the accolades that it deserves is:

Born in Boston in May 19, 1871. He started experiencing annual periods of illumination. During a 39 day period of illumination in 1921, he believed he received the secrets of the universe from God, which he was asked to share with the world. In 1948 he married Lao Russell, and together they founded the University of Science and Philosophy for the purpose of spreading these teachings throughout the world.

Russell passed away in 1963 and Lao in 1988.

As we know ( if you believe in the subject that is ), there has been many avatars walking this earth and spruiking all forms of truths and otherwise. However, there is a great scarcity of individuals that have been told the scientific facts by ‘ God ’ and as such we should pay very careful attention to what they have to say.

That is of course after first proving to the best of our abilities that the individuals are not deluded and merely not taking their medication.

From what Russell has demonstrated by deed and word, I for one am a very serious listener to his scientific views. Russell has written many books on the topic and as far as the cell research is concerned, negative electricity has a very good ( and very difficult to comprehend ) write up in his book " The Universal One ".

Some of his thoughts on the different types of electricity.

* Positive electricity is the generative electricity.

Positive electricity is that state of motion in which electricity dominates magnetism.

Positive electricity is that state of motion in which centripetal force dominates centrifugal force.

* Negative electricity is the radiative energy.

Negative electricity is that state of motion in which magnetism dominates electricity.

Negative electricity is that state of motion in which centrifugal force dominates centripetal force.

* Electricity and magnetism exist as separate appearances only when opposed. In non-opposition they disappear, they become one.

* Electricity and magnetism are not two separate forces, nor are they two separate substances. They are merely two different dimensions of motion. They belong solely to motion and not to substance.

* Neither are positive and negative electricity two kinds of electricity. Positive and negative electricity are but two differing potential’s of the same force which must move in opposite directions.

As I said, Russell has written many books and it would take a life time of very serious reading to fully comprehend what he is trying to pass to us. I am only relaying on to you sufficient to formulate a theory that I hold.

If you have been in the ‘ alternative energy ’ scene for a while, you will no doubt be aware of many, many experimenters working on many devices.

I will not bore you with a long list of experimenter’s and their related research.

You can very easily look up your favourite experimenter by simply using the Web and a suitable search engine. Please realise that all you read is not fact and that there are a lot of grey areas, including in what you are reading now. Sorry, I am doing my best, but I am fallible. <g>

You can use Nikola Tesla, John Bedini, John Searl, Floyd Sweet, Robert Adams and Edwin Gray as representative examples of the inventors that I am talking about.

However, you will notice that some peculiarities as displayed by the cell are common to many of these devices. To name a few, the device goes cold when operating, the device shows magnetic anomalies in the near vicinity of the experiment, the device may be surrounded with a blue or pink glow, the device will build up a very strong ‘ electric ’ charge and the device may display some form of gravity anomalies.

Different cells made by many different experimenter’s, and located in various parts of the world, have displayed some or all of the above anomalies.

For the purpose of this short paper, I will stick to the electrical portion of the cell anomalous behaviour.

I will place here some points that you may want to consider. As usual it is early days in this research and as usual I will have the people in the know ( like Joe ) laughing their heads off at my puny attempts, but at least it is an attempt and it may seed a far better idea that you may have.

Please share it, do not sit on it like Joe and many other selfish individuals.

* A high frequency cell generated or accumulated force will create a magnetic field. This is easily proven with a compass or a magnet on a piece of string. The cell’s stainless steel tubes that you did such a good job of testing for magnetism, will now have a very strong North South field in the vertical axis. And this field is not in the steel, for when you pour out the water the cell will go back to ‘ normal ’.

From the above, I assume that the resonant field ( and thus this magnetism ) is a function of the resonant cavity of which the water forms an integral part, ie. no water, no magnetism.

In simple terms we have what is commonly called a ‘ tank circuit’ and this tank circuit is generating a unique magnetic field that is DIFFERENT from a magnetic field created by a steady DC ( direct current ) as may be created by a normal car battery.

Tesla referred to it as a ‘ hysterical ’ magnetic field. As referred to hysteresis and not to somebody that has lost the plot. <g>

* The magnitude of the above hysterical field is the unbalancing of the three force triangle towards the gravitational effects and explains the Joe cell gravitational anomalies ( to me at least ).

To rephrase the above, if the balance of the two forces ( electricity and magnetism ) is upset or if you could nearly remove one of them, gravity as we call it would be negated.

Walter Russel stated that the electro-magnetic process of mass formation ( centripetal ) is balanced by the attractive power of electricity and the dissipating ( centrifugal ) repelling power of magnetism.

* Please remember that our teacher is Nature. Nature does her tricks with simple elegance and thus is using the proper energy efficient tools. As you can see by the above example we only have to upset the electro-magnetic balance and enormous power is at our disposal.

The Joe cell can do this and you have to respect the logic of some of the individuals who are hell bent on keeping the methods secret from the rest of us.

As most people are interested in running an engine on the cell, let me show you the balance of the two forces, again with thanks to Walter Russell.

Intake stroke. Compression stroke

Negative, expanding. Positive, contracting

Negative, cooling system Positive, heating system

Negative, increasing volume Positive, lessening volume

Negative, discharging Positive, charging

Negative, opening spirals Positive, closing spirals

Negative, lowering potential’s Positive, increasing potential

Negative, radiating Positive, generating

What am I on about? Let me tell you.

When a piston is at the top of the compression stroke, the compressed air molecules are ‘ charging ’ and require an ‘ increase in potential ’ or in other words, they need additional electrical charge or as Joe like to say, more electrons.

These are supplied to a large degree from the cylinder walls. But, let us assume that the Joe cell has somehow removed all ‘ spare ’ electrons from the engine block. What now? Where do you get them from, as surely you must?

Would it be possible for the compressed air to behave differently and maybe contribute some negative ( mirror ) electricity ( as in the science section above )? We know as a scientific fact that the annihilation of the two different particle masses ( the normal and the mirror ) contribute energy.

This resultant energy may cause an expansion of the captured air charge and thus result in the ‘ push ’ that pushes the piston down. Why not?

On this line, Russell stated that a sudden lowering of potential would cause an explosion, a flame or a luminous streak. Good enough for me, you of course can make you own assumptions.

Again on the same subject, please remember that Joe stated that a spark plug ignition was not required, only the electro-magnetic pulse at the right time from the car coil ( a crude form of a Tesla coil ).

Remember my theory ( like hundreds of others ) is an unproven fact, and you are more than welcome to modify and improve on my humble contribution. That is called science.

This article is here to make you think, comprehend and maybe lead you to some answers.

I feel very comfortable with the notion that the Joe cell ( and similar devices ) utilises a form of energy that is the same ( in many ways ) as a mysterious energy that has appeared for many other experimenters and equally baffled them.

In all cases, the energy ‘ appeared ’ due to a manipulation of electricity and magnetism.

I also believe that the source of this energy is present everywhere in abundance, and is the only energy that we should be using, and is our only hope in saving mankind and Mother Earth.

I also think that the Joe cell is the simplest and most elegant way of accumulating and utilising this great gift from our Creator. I have dedicated my life to this quest, and I feel very humble in the Lord allowing me to be a very small player in the experimenting with, and the resultant sharing of my research with my fellow brothers.

My last word on the subject is that unless we all share the work and thus become a force to be reckoned with, the few but extremely powerful moguls will always keep us in bondage and ignorance.

Being a completely non-scientific type, and having spent many, many enjoyable and sometimes confusing hours watching Joe’s video and reading the books by Barry and Alex, I thought it just might be helpful to new builders to document my experiences.

My advice to you is to watch that video, and read both those books, and of course, read what I have to say. It may not be of any use to you at all, but it might.

This is an account of what works for me.

I particularly wish to thank Alex and Barry for their work, and Joe for his and for passing on the wonderful information. And there is one other person I wish to thank. Guess who?

Before we get into the real guts stuff, some of you may get a wee bit confused. If so email me. Please keep it short and precise. I would like an intro as to who and where you are. I think that is fair, don’t you? rencells@yahoo.com.au

This is it. This is for me and for you. This is for all the people who just want to get on with doing it. Doing what? Building those funny little things that people call Joe Cells.

Now let’s get it right, right from the start. What you are going to build is not a Joe cell. It is an orgone, or Life-force, accumulator that uses water as a medium. Joe’s cells are Joe cells, mine are Ren cells, and you will have your own. Mary cells, Dave cells, whatever.

I need to point out now, that as you proceed with this little adventure of yours, you are going to discover some rather amazing things. Amazing things about water and weather and orgone and aether, and stainless steel and rubber and magnets and electricity. But most of all, you are going to discover stuff about you. You will also win new friends and sometimes you will wish you hadn’t. You may have unexpected guests on your computer or in the sky close by, who are unwelcome. You should hope for a visit from someone you do not want to see. You are embarking, my friend, on the voyage of a lifetime.

Come on, let’s get to work. I am going to show you how I do it. I build cells as close to the way Joe does as I know how. I build the Mark 3 (5 inch) cell and the Mark 4 (4 inch) cell.

Cones and Kegs:

I read Barry’s book first and decided that I needed a beer keg and those big 10 inch stainless steel cones that are used in milk factories. Well I got the keg but never did get the cones. I did end up with the smaller cones (5.5 inch) from dairy farm milk/cream separators. So being one who is full on most of the time I set up my gear. The beer keg was too big so I scored an old stainless steel hot water urn, the type they had in the smoko room at work before those horrible coffee machines became popular. Anyway, a few modifications, like ripping the guts out of it and plugging up the holes. Filled it full of water and it leaked. Not to be foiled, I found a 20 litre plastic bucket and put the whole shebang in. It had taken a lot of fiddling to get the cones spaced just right around a piece of PVC pipe. Joe uses agricultural pipe, the drainage stuff. For the life of me I could not find any small enough to go inside the smaller cones. But where there is a will there is a way.

There is a drawing of the cone/keg set-up in Barry’s book, and because I have trouble drawing on these computer machines, I will not attempt to replicate it. My cone set-up is modified to suit readily available hardware. I have been able to do away with the 3 rubber spacers between each pair of cones and this new method makes the rig much quicker to dismantle, clean and reassemble.

As you can expect I could hardly wait to hook it on to a car battery. So I didn’t. Wait, that is. Yep, hooked it up and watched and waited and watched and waited. I did this for a long time. The books and the videos don’t say anything much about waiting. I will tell you. Impatient blokes like me actually can learn to wait, and it hurts when you first start.

I remember watching the video and there is Joe in the shed with the beer keg full of big cones and water, a flick of the switch on his electro rectifier something or other machine and then he chucks a match in and jumps as some gas explodes. Well I always did like matches. My dear old Dad used to reckon there was pyromania in the family, I reckon there was some arson about. Well I waited some more and watched some more and finally I saw tiny little bubbles and a smoky sort of cloud in the water.

After a while there was some brown flaky stuff starting to float around and drift to the top. I let it stay there. Hours later it was thicker and there were bubbles trapped in it. That was when I got match happy. Just could not resist it. Well I blew up some bubbles that I thought would be loud but weren’t. I blew up some that I thought would fizz but instead they cracked, some rather loudly. I blew up bubbles in the centre, in the middle, along the outside. I went through a lot of matches and a lot of time waiting for more bubbles to return, just to explode them. I did as Joe does and learned to take the scum off without losing the charge from the water. I would leave the thing alone for a couple of days sometimes and come back. I did it for months and enjoyed myself immensely.

In the meantime I also learned that it is not too hard to burn the cones, and the water. A few times I have forgotten to take the power off to the unit and it produced some really vile looking green and inky black muck below the layer of brown sludge. I am talking about three distinct layers over half an inch thick each. And lovely clean water underneath.

I have learned that cleaning the gear often does not hurt. In fact I did find that the more often it is cleaned, and the more it is used in shortish bursts, the better the unit works.

And then one day I poked a match into a tiny little bubble, out by the edge, all by itself. When that went off there was an extremely loud "crackthud" sound and all the brown scum was blown off the surface of the water. All over the roof of the shed, one of the walls, and me. My ears had popped, implosion, duckz gutz. Naturally I was frozen in place. My lady wife and young blokes came running, "Dad, Dad, are you alright?" And there I am still standing there with a dead match in my hand and stupid grin on my face. Oh yes, friend, I was very alright.

As time went by I was able to get the water to a stage where I could get those sounds nearly every time. It was about then that I noticed the weather seemed to effect the speed of charging and also the types of sounds I could get. I have been able to detect five different sounds. Some explosions have bursts of orange flame, some blue, some bright golden yellow, and some have no flame detectable with the naked eye. Some are lightening speed and some just seem to make a sheet of blue across the entire surface of the water. I also began to notice that clouds could come out of nowhere when I was charging, and sudden wind gusts.

Yes, charging water and exploding bubbles was fun, and time consuming.

But I found out that I had been wasting time. For a bloke with one or two cells, a cone/keg rig is not essential, in fact it is really only good for having fun with, being a bit of a larrikin etc. It can also show the changes water goes through when electricity is applied in certain ways. Nice to have, but not essential, an option for you.

Well back to the story. So you want to know about cells. Wonderful things, and so many different ideas as to what constitutes a good cell.

The purpose of having a cell is to charge water to a certain state. By charge I do not mean getting it to a stage where we are producing gallons of gas, far from it. The purpose of a cell is not to produce gas. Gas is a by-product of the process. Gas bubbles can be, and are, used to identify the state of the charge of the cell and the water. We do not want too much gas. That is for the folks who can’t get a car to run on the Life-force. The charging process will provide enough gas to do what we want. More on that later.

Accompanying this manual is a drawing at the back of the Mark 4. The Mark 3 is almost identical. The only difference is that the Mark 3 has one extra neutral cylinder (pipe or tube) and is therefore an inch larger in diameter. It is also more expensive to build, harder to install in a car, heavier, and takes a lot longer to charge.

Joe intended the Mark 4 cell to be filled with water charged in the cone/keg rig. I have done it once or twice but no longer bother. A properly built Mark 4 cell is extremely capable of charging it’s own water, and in fact seems to prefer to do it that way.

It is my opinion, and not verified, that each cell develops it’s own frequency. And I also believe that each cone/keg rig has it’s own frequency. Why cause possible problems by adding water that has been charged in a keg and may be at a different frequency to what the cell will try to get to on its own?

Problems are to be avoided. Your own cell technology needs to be kept simple until you are way along the track. Too many blokes never build cells because they get bogged down in the theory. Just build your cell. The theory can come later. I don’t worry about what other people think of my methods, neither should you. OK, a scientist may well have good reason to say that I go about things backwards. But that is only from his perspective. From my perspective, and because I have no idea about science, my way of doing things is logical. If it turns out that the cell works, why bother about knowing all the theory.

Incidentally, I have not had a scientist tell me that I do things backwards. I did have a CSIRO scientist indicate that he was puzzled that I had so little knowledge of the science involved. But he also said that science does not recognize orgone as a valid subject, so he could not have known anything about it either. Caused me to wonder where he was coming from.

I have had another scientist tell me I work by intuition. Sounds fair to me. Thanks Alex.

So, my advice to you is to build a Mark 4 cell, don’t bother with a cone/keg rig unless you feel like playing with matches.

I would like to reiterate, a Mark 4 cell is not only capable of charging it’s own water, it actually seems to prefer water that is charged in and by itself.

I believe that when we charge water in a cell, over a period of time the stainless steel gets accustomed to being tickled by a trickle of electricity and actually comes to like it. And the stainless steel somehow develops a form of "memory".

When you build your own cell and are ready to start charging, you had better get ready to start watching. Watch for bubbles around the top of the smallest pipe. This centre pipe is the negative. It is also called the cathode. That is where you are first going to see bubbles.

The first time you hook a car battery to your cell you will most likely have to wait a minute, even longer maybe, before you see any bubbles at all. However, as your cell gets used over a period of time with lots of short applications of battery power, you will notice that even with new water the bubbles will begin to appear more quickly. My trusty old Mark 4 produces bubbles in new water in less than 10 seconds, sometimes in 2.

What about building a cell? OK, I will get on to that now.

Read on.

I prefer to use 316 L stainless steel, and seamless if at all possible. But for starters, use anything you can get your hands on, just get started.

The first thing I really do need to explain is "cost". There is a lot of talk about cost. I have received numerous emails from people saying they are wanting to build a joecell and will get to it as soon as they have some money. Money? How much money? I’ll tell you in a while.

Back to my cells. I built a Mark 4, because I had the bits. I built it and started charging it just to see if a Mark 4 would do the same thing as a Mark 3 was designed for.

There is also a lot of talk about using recycled stainless steel from scrap yards. I did that too. In fact my first cell was made out of scrap; it was as rough as guts and it cost me ten dollars. It was a combination of the Mark3 and the Mark 4. It had a 5 inch outer casing. That outside casing is your positive, or anode. But you know that because you have already looked at the plans at the back of the manual. And if you haven’t done that yet, then maybe you had better do it now.

Getting back. Inside the outer casing was the cathode (-) and two neutrals. The cathode was 200 mm long, not 8 inches, 200 mm long and an inch in diameter. Because that is what I had. The first, or inner neutral was also 200 mm and 2 inches dia, but the outer neutral had horrible jagged bits on the bottom, was 5 inches long on one side and 7.5 inches long on the other. It had a diameter of 3 inches. In theory, and according to the books it could not work. Heh heh heh. But it did, sort of.

I had rammed a stainless steel bolt up into the bottom of the cathode. That bolt can be a mounting bolt to your vehicle, but more importantly for now it is the negative terminal into the cell. It must be insulated from the positive outer casing, and it must be watertight where the bolt passes through the bottom of the case. You will end up trying all sorts of things hoping to insulate that bolt and seal the opening. You may use combinations of things. You may get flash and have a custom-built bolt made, with flanges on it and specially machined insulators etc. Friend, that sort of silly business is overkill. I use rubber that I ripped out of wrecked cars at the local dump. There are beaut bits with holes in them that you can find in engine compartments. I have used bits of old inner tube and pieces of electrical conduit. If your bolt is the right diameter you may be able to use the white plastic (or PVC or nylon) olives that are used in copper pipe fittings. Try anything, try everything. Just do it.

Let me stress. With cells the major outlay is time. The hardware is not expensive unless you go high tech. I like to do it as cheaply as possible, because I have to.

I had come to believe that nice new stainless steel pipe was expensive. I thought I could not afford it. So in the end I priced some. I also found out that it pays to shop around. It pays to shop around because some stainless steel merchants sell it by the metre, others will sell it by the inch. Shop fitters who build commercial kitchens can be helpful, so can plumbers who do industrial work. Befriend a sheet metal worker, a lathe man.

It pays to look at what you want to build and what you can afford. I am very fortunate in that I have two very good mates who have also started building cells. Both these blokes have donated hardware to the cause. The major financial expense is the last one. That is good. It allows you the time to save up for the good bit that goes on top, or it allows you the time to decide to go low-tech, just to see if it works, and to save the bucks.

Most of my cells are all hand built. The books say get the materials lathed. Well that’s fine if you live in the city. It also means more dollars unless you can find a friend of a friend who has a metal lathe.

Me? I use a hacksaw with new blades (that’s flash), a file, and wet and dry sandpaper.

It is important to get the ends of the pipes cut off flat, no ups and down, cut flat so that when the pipe is sitting on a flat surface it stands straight up in the air. No leaning towers of Pisa please.

A hint for the hacksaw jockeys. To get a line around the circumference of the pipe, wrap a piece of paper around the pipe. Make sure there are no overlaps. The result is a mark that will yield a 90 degree cut. Now I usually mark the pipe with a ballpoint, but you could use a spray can of paint if you wished. When you start cutting, don’t, repeat, do not, try to cut straight through. Sure as eggs you will run off line and end up with a horrible mess. What I do is just start gently sawing on the mark as I slowly rotate the pipe. Keep rotating as you keep cutting, then when the end drops off, lightly file off any jagged little bits, not forgetting to clean up inside the pipe where the saw cut will have pushed a wafer thin amount of stainless. I use a small chain saw file for this and finish with a few swipes of wet and dry.

Tools required:- hacksaw and blades, flat file, chain saw file, wet and dry sandpaper.

Now, the bottom. We have to have a bottom on the cell. There are cells with flat bums, others have domes and some have cones. I use flat bottoms because they are cheap, except for the original with the jagged bit. It came from a scrap yard and was a thin piece of 5 inch pipe with domed ends welded top and bottom. It had a piece of brass rod brazed or whatever they call it on to the centre of one domed end. I think this gizmo may have been a float of some sort.

I weld a flat round plate of stainless steel onto the outer case for a bottom. I use 316 L stainless electric welding rods with an ancient arc welder. This is not the preferred option, but it works for me.

That flat plate for the bottom. It might be helpful if I mention that it is a good idea to drill the hole in this before you weld it. First you will need to know the size of the hole you want. It has to be big enough to take your bolt plus whatever you are going to use for an insulator. And please, try to make sure the hole is in the centre of your disc. I have one that I drilled with my Makita, it is a quarter of an inch off centre. It still works, but it annoys me to know it is not as good as it could be. Fair dinkum, go to a small engineering shop, tell the bloke what diameter hole you want drilled in the centre, and 5 minutes later you are on your way home five bucks lighter.

That same bloke can cut your pipes to length, nice and square. He is also quite capable of doing any machining you need for your top. He can make press fittings from a dome or cone to the case. Get a quote off him, see if you can afford it. It can save you the time and give you a better result.

Time to wop it all together. Don’t worry about the top if you haven’t got it yet. You still have time, weeks of it, maybe months. Look at a set of plans. The ones from Barry’s book or the one at the end of this.

Now you are going to need some insulator/spacers to go between the pipes. Let’s get a bit professional here and call the pipes cylinders.

I used bits of car heater hose to start off with, then corks, and have finally settled on old oxy/acetylene hose. It is a little thin for my cell so I cut off little bits of timber dowel and ram them up the holes in the hose. This makes them nice and solid, and it works for me. Fancy that.

You should have cut that hose some where around 10 mm, long and you will need three for the top and three for the bottom for each gap between the plates. Naturally you will not want any for the bottom between the outside neutral and the positive case. The bolt will hold the cathode in the centre and you wouldn’t have been able to get the spacers in the bottom anyway.

When fitting the spacers, fit them about half an inch below the tops and above the bottoms of the plates and try to keep them all at around 120 degrees, in line with each other for aesthetics.

Now plonk it in the case and insulate it and waterproof it. Please, please try to waterproof it by mechanical means, not goo. Use rubber.

The next step is getting the right water. That’s what I said, the right water. Ideally you will find a nice spring out in the country. A place where water bubbles up out of the ground. Another good source is up near the headwaters of a nice clean creek. Where the water swirls and dances and gurgles around rocks, maybe down a waterfall or a series of cascades, an area where there are still lots of trees.

You want unpolluted water, and it does not matter if a cow has pooped in it, or if there is something dead in it. That is organic, and that is alright. It is chemicals that need to be avoided. Fertilizer, yuk, but that does not necessarily mean that the water is no good. If you live in the country you will know where to start looking. If you are a townie you can take the opportunity to have a weekend away camping in a national park or state forest in the mountains. Take water containers. Glass is best. Old flagon bottles with corks or rubber bungs are good. Be inventive, seize the opportunity, get the family involved and enthused. Start that now. Anyone who is regularly going to be in your car needs to get involved and enthusiastic now.

Your water has to be alive. It should have a bond with the earth, with the Life-force that causes this earth and everything and everybody on it to stay alive. Reich called this "orgone". I call it the Life-force, Alex calls it the Life-force. I got the name from him. I got a lot of good stuff from Alex. I also got his friendship, very, very precious.

Water. Rain water will charge but it will not hold the charge, so forget it. Tap water, about the same. We all think of rain water as being pure and fresh. But friend, it can have chemicals in it. And it has been out of touch with the earth. The bond has been broken. That is the important thing to remember. The bond has been broken. The same goes for bottled water. Even if it says it is bottled spring water it is likely useless, and old and dead. Get the real stuff, living water. Now where have I heard "living water" before?

So, you are back with your water. Get your cell up on a bench. What name have you given the cell? Got to have a name. The cathode bolt should be poking out the bottom of the case. Get a piece of old inner tube, cut a small hole in it for the bolt to protrude through. This rubber is an insulator. You will have to mount your cell so you can easily and quickly get your electrical lead off the cathode. The top of the cell needs to be low enough to allow you to see down inside the cell, and watch what is happening.

Make certain the tops of the cathode and the neutrals are all level with each other before you start charging. For charging you can use a car battery or a battery charger or leads from a battery that is connected to your charger. If you do not have an amp meter, an old style battery charger with an amp meter built in will tell you what current the cell draws.

Before I forget, if you are charging with a battery charger, when you turn it off make sure to remove both leads from the cell, otherwise the cell may lose it’s charge.

Now just add water. Fill to just below the level of the tops of the cathode and neutrals. Half a mm is just about right. OK? Ready? Hope you have your skinny home made set of jumper leads handy. Connect the negative at the battery or charger to the cathode bolt, and the positive to the top lip of the cell. You don’t have a top on it yet. Now watch.

Within a minute you should be seeing tiny little bubbles rising to the surface between the cathode and the first negative. That is electrolysis, the very first stage in charging. Any dill can do this. Now power off. I only give a Mark 4 cell 3 minutes power at a time. After the first 3 minutes I am quite happy to charge again for 90 seconds every hour or so. But that is the way I do it and other people prefer to charge at a more sedate rate. If you apply power for longer than that you can expect to get a coating of brown muck on the surfaces of the cylinders. That will mean dismantling and cleaning and starting all over again.

I add about a quarter to half a cup of generic white vinegar to my water. It makes the water more conductive and helps to keep the metal surfaces and the water cleaner for longer.

After several applications of power, you will begin to notice some changes. If you watch you should see the water level begin to rise up over the tops of the cylinders. You should also be able to see small bubbles forming and adhering to both sides of the cylinders. This is as it should be. You may notice what looks like tiny little tidal waves racing around between the cylinders. And no doubt you will have also noticed some brown flakey bits coming up with the bubbles. You can wipe them off with a paper towel, just keep your fingers out of the water. Fingers in the water will discharge it.

At some stage you will realise that your water is dirty. That is normal. Filter it. I use 2 litre fruit juice bottles for funnels. Just cut the bottom off and place it over one of those big glass half kilo coffee jars or something similar. Inside the funnel you put screwed up or folded up paper towels or coffee filters. Now run the water through. You may have to do this a dozen times. The particles are fine but as the paper towel becomes saturated the holes in the paper get smaller.

Get your filtering done in less than an hour. Remember that water is partly charged. Keep your fingers out of it. Don’t lose the charge.

After filtering and powering up again it is not uncommon to notice grey/brown flakes floating around in the newly filtered water. This has really worried me in the past. Lately I have found an answer, at least it is working for me at the moment. I ripped up one of my old cotton T-shirts. I used a quarter of it at the bottom of the funnel and the paper towels on top. It stopped the flakes. I suspect those flakes were tiny paper fibres, and that when the water was charged up again, they expanded.

Now about that T-shirt. It had been a faithful old thing, much loved and much worn. It was part of me and I was part of it. When I tore it up it was a bit smelly with my perspiration. I was going to write sweat, but thought, nope, they don’t want to read that. What has a smelly old T-shirt got to do with it? Y factor. I was in that T-shirt, now I am in the cell

As you continue with the charging and filtering, you should notice that each time you clean your water the cell seems to be responding a little more quickly. And you will also notice that the bubbles are getting bigger. And you will hopefully know by now that some of those bubbles will remain on the top of the water overnight. Now if you decide to check your cell you will need to leave it unpowered for at least 24 hours. Take note of what the bubbles look like half an hour after you take the power off and then compare that with what you have 24 hours later. Hopefully most of the bubbles will still be there.

You will have noticed at the beginning of the charge process, (how long ago was that now) that on the first few power ups, mist or clouds of minute bubbles wafted across the top of the cell, up to about 4 inches above the water. And as time went by that stopped happening and you saw the surface of the water begin to rise and yet you could still easily see the meniscus between the cylinders. And eventually the water broke over the tops of the cylinders and now bubbles are getting trapped. They no longer launch themselves out of the water. They remain trapped. This indicates an increase in surface tension. This indicates that something is happening to the molecular structure of the water, or for those game to think about it, the atomic structure of the atoms that make up the water molecule.

Now that change in structure is caused by something. Electricity from your battery running through your cell and through the water is changing the structure of the atoms and is creating frequencies. When your cell is at about the right frequency, the cell is charged to stage 3., or conversely, when the cell is at stage 3, a certain frequency has been reached. And it appears that stage 3 is as far as you can charge a cell. However there is the beginning of stage 3 and there is the deeper stage 3.

With all charging it pays to watch what is going on. Sometimes, even at stage 3 it is helpful to remove the bubbles so you can look for the cell’s pulse.

No, I am not joking, at stage 3 there will be a pulse. Some people are supposed to be able to see pulses in between all the cylinders. I only ever see them between the cathode and the first neutral. When the pulsing first starts I see 12 small areas where it looks similar to when you put a hose into a drum of water, with the end of the hose under the water level and pointing up. Now turn the tap on and adjust the hose so the water from the hose is just making the surface of the water burble. You will notice how the water from the hose seems to roll over on itself and drop to the bottom of the drum. That is what a pulse in a cell looks like, with a packet full of ever so small bubbles. Please do not confuse this pulse with electrolysis surge, they do look similar.

When I first get these pulses they come at the rate of about two per second in all pulse areas. Usually in the next charge that pulse rate has decreased, now you will not believe this, but it has decreased itself to my heartbeat. Not just the same speed, but synchronised.

Now that is what I call bonding. That will happen I believe, if you have a good Y factor going for you. And that synchronised pulsing is sort of supernatural.

Now not being a scientist I could explain what that means to me, but that would be giving the game away. You can work it out.

Right, so there I was filtering lovely creek water with a dash of vinegar and now a bit of me. I can hear the academics screaming from here. So what. My cell is part of me. I put a lot of me into that cell. I believe that it can do what I want it to do. I have bonded with my cell.

Now let’s get real here. The cell in itself is just a conglomeration of pipes and rubber. It is only water and a dash of vinegar that physically goes into it. And then we apply a little bit of electricity. OK, what we have here is hardware. That is all it is, hardware. But there is something else going on. The hardware makes gas, but the aim is not for gas. The aim is to get the cell to a condition where it can attract the Life-force into it, and encourage the Life-force to accumulate in there until it reaches a certain potential. Our next aim is to encourage the Life-force to enter into the ugly bits of metal we call an engine.

By now you know we do that by using an alloy tube that goes onto the side of the engine. It does not go into the carburetor, it does not go into the manifold. It goes onto, onto is the key word.

Our aim is to encourage the Life-force to flow up the tube and through the metal of the engine and into the water jacket. We build a blank, or blind plug into our connection between the cell and the engine. The gas does not go into the engine. Hopefully the gas will fill the top of the cell and the tube all the way to the engine. And that gas has a certain electrical charge that does encourage the Life-force to flow.

The next step is for the Life-force to charge the water in the water jacket of the engine, and that water will then assist in making some changes to the materials the engine is made of. The engine and the coolant water actually change into something else. I do not know what it is, I do not care, I simply wait for it to happen.

All of this talk about Life-force may have started some of you wondering what it is all about. Do an Internet search on Willhelm Reich, or orgone. Read Alex Schiffers book. There is oodles of information available.

But I have another idea. As you may have guessed by now, I am not really a scholar, nor a scientist. But neither am I a complete dill. I can have some ideas of my own. I can rationalise. So can you.

It is time to go for the "what-if’s". Let us accept that Reich was right (and no one has disproved him) and that there is an orgone field traveling around the earth. How did it get there? Do you believe that you can tap into that energy field? I hope you do. Because this is what the Y factor is all about. Alex Schiffer wrote about the Y factor. It does seem that most, if not all cell builders accept that the Y factor holds the real key to success with a cell of the Joe variety.

What is the Y factor about? On a very basic level it is about integrity, truth and honesty. It is not about financial gain. Some of us believe that the Y factor will never be "cracked". Some of us believe it has been put there for a purpose. Well if it was put there, how, who did it or did it just happen?

Many of us know, more suspect, that there is another dimension involved when we start charging up our cells. Some of us believe that we are beginning to move into that dimension as soon as we decide to become builders.

Anyway, it is your cell, not mine, so you are the person to do the thinking, ask the questions, and make the decisions. I wish you well in this.

A thing to possibly take note of. My cells would not charge properly until I realised that building cells with the goal of making money was not on. As soon as I gave up on that idea I became successful.

Lids and outlet pipes, look at Alex’s and Barry’s work. There is no need for me to duplicate it.

And there is something else I need to tell you. Take a deep breath. This might hurt. There is a high probability that you will never get to run your car with a cell and no petrol.

There has been a lot of hype about these Joe cells. They don’t always work. No matter what you have heard, or been told, or read, Joe cells do not always work. In fact they more often will not do what they are built to do. There are experts trying to figure out how to make every cell work every time. I am not a scientist.

My recommendation is to go for the Mark 4. Joe originally built the Mark 3 as a cell that would charge it’s own water and would then be installed in a vehicle. If my understanding of Barry’s book is correct, that Mark 3 cell was meant to be wired to a small power supply. This was intended to maintain a charge in the cell at times when the orgone level is low, which I am told is somewhere around 2 o’clock to 4 o’clock in the morning. It seems that even Joe’s own cell was losing its charge at that time, and 1.5 volts from a torch battery was seen as the answer to the problem.

And yet another "however". However, not all cells lose their charge, or leak. So if your cell does not leak you will not need to wire it up in-vehicle. I personally am dead against wiring them up in cars. If the cell does not leak it’s charge it is a good one, if it does lose it’s charge it is not going to be reliable even if you can encourage it to do what you built it to do. So then you have the option of starting again or trying to turn it into a gas producer. That is probably easier, but is still hard, and is not what Joe cells are about.

In our experimental work on the cell, I have graded the cell types with a crude numerical system, ie. stage 1, stage 2 and so on. Let me refresh you in case you have forgotten or are a new player:

Stage 1:

A normal electrolysis cell doing what it does best, conventional electrolysis with the production of hydrogen and oxygen. This production of gasses follows the well known Faraday rules, namely more current , more gas.

Absolutely useless for what we are working on, and only of any use to people that still think that they can obtain more power from the resultant conversion of water to gas, than what the power requirement is to achieve the separation. I wish you luck, you will need it.

Stage 2:

The ‘seeding’ of the cell with the new energy. At this stage the cell is attempting to initialise the conversion process, but due to faulty materials or construction defects or water type, etc., etc., the cell will not ‘catch’ or enter its free running or breeding mode in the production of the energy. This can be equated to trying to push a child on a swing and pushing the swing out of synchronism (or with insufficient force) with the desired pendulum effect.

Stage 3:

The ‘breeding’ stage of the cell: The ‘seeding’ attempt was successful (the swing is swinging) and the cell is now accumulating and producing the desired energy. The output of the cell is greater than the combined design (or otherwise) losses, and the cell is useable although very temperamental and thus unreliable and not practical for commercial use. At this stage, the cell is a ‘laboratory queen’ and is only suitable for proof of concept type work, as well as the unreliable production of ‘anti-gravity’ and transmutation effects (to mention a couple). This stage 3 cell would suffice for the stationary running of a water-cooled power plant for example.

Stage 4:

The cell (as well as breeding) is now a reliable and commercially viable product. It is not affected by power lines and similar low level electromagnetic disturbances and is also far more immune to "Y" factors and similar external fields.

The most important characteristic is that the cell is not location specific. Of course, this attribute is exactly what you need from a reliable car.

This stage of cell operation is still heavily guarded by the very few people that ‘know’ the secrets of positive and negative potential utilisation and frequency resonance in association with the cell design.

If you stop and think and consider the staggering implication of the mass release of this energy to all and sundry, you may then realise why the game became dirty and free energy does cost money!

Please do not be surprised if these individuals do not knock on your door, and spoon feed you the details.

Stage 5:

This is really not a cell as such. It is the conversion of the engine, the water therein and the electrical system of the car, with the aim of achieving a cell type effect out of the engine itself. Of course this is also the obvious and logical conclusion for the experimenter that wanted to run his car on a cell.

To the best of my knowledge, you must have a water cooled engine to achieve this ‘enveloping’ engine field and thus it is not suitable for air cooled motors.

As you can easily deduce, if people are secretive with a Stage 4 cell, I don’t have to tell you how they guard a Stage 5 unit. However, if you know how to go Stage 5, they will knock on your door for other reasons.

There are many other types of specialised cells that are not relevant to this simple coverage, but I am simply making you aware that Stage 5 is not the end of the ball game by a long shot.

Zero Point Energy:

On the temperature scale, absolute zero is -273.15° C or zero degrees Kelvin.At this temperature, as there is no ‘ heat ’, the capacity for doing work ( energy ) should be zero.Some scientists do however agree that as the energy present at his temperature is not thermal, it is plausible that there is ‘ Sea of Energy ’ or an aether or similar that has short lived ‘ virtual ’ elementary particles capable of doing ‘ work ’.

Refer to Dirac (1930), Gamow (1966) and many others as well as a short mention in my update ‘ Negative Electricity ’ (10-12-2001).

A related book on the engineering principles for Free Energy is " Quest For Zero Point Energy " by Moray B. King ISBN: 0-932813-94-1, published by Adventures Unlimited Press.

Conservation of Energy:

To have ‘Free Energy’, we have to break some well established laws. But, laws are meant to be broken as and when better laws come along to replace the flawed existing ones. Thus the laws of thermodynamics and the conservation of energy are not set in concrete. If we do not assume that the physical universe that we are in is a closed system, we can introduce overdue revisions of present laws. The Joe cell is a conversion device that can ‘ cross ’ over this border or present day laws and extract and utilise the endless and unlimited energy that is all around us and that the majority ignore. Modern science has finally caught up, and now the concepts that the cell works on are not on the lunatic fringe, in actuality it follows well defined scientific rules.

Principle of all ‘Free Energy Devices’:

The devices that do tap into this energy stream all utilise similar principles. I will leave it to the reader to pursue other devices, but the present topic is on the most elegant ( my opinion ) and simplest device of all, the Joe cell. Please try to understand these three principles, as all device use them in some form or other.

1. We must have a system that is not in balance or is unstable.

Thus, if we have a stable system or a system in equilibrium, there is no reason for the system or cell to do work. Like a boulder that has rolled down from the mountain top, once it reaches the valley there it stays, static and in balance.

As Summers stated, " The energy from this storehouse ( ZPE ) is available to man free of charge in vast quantities by the simple method of changing the electromagnetic Balance ".

On the bye, he also stated that Orgone or Prana, is an AC electrical current pulsating at an extremely high frequency. Now that is interesting, keep it in the back of your mind for later use.

So for rule 1, our cell must not be in a stable state, it must be seeking an equilibrium or a more stable point just like a boulder in motion at the top of the mountain.

2. We must have a non-liner performance in the conversion.

This should be fairly evident, for what is the point of getting back a result that is equivalent to the work that we have put into to get that result. We must have an amplifying effect so that a very small input will return a far larger gain. For example, it should require a very small push on our 10 ton boulder to initiate an enormous amount of energy as the boulder seeks equilibrium.

So for rule 2, our cell must get beyond stage 2 ( the seeding stage ) and become a non linear converter or accumulator for the ‘energy’. Stage 1 or plain electrolysis is useless and if you stay at this stage, you will get either more or less gas production, period.

3. We must have our device (the cell) in a potential source of the energy.

This one is an easy one as all things on this planet are constantly surrounded by an endless energy field that only requires the right type of conversion device to utilise same.

So for rule 3, the experimenter does not have to make any provisions as the cell is in this field, as is everything else.

As rule 3. takes care of itself, we are left with rule 1 and 2.

The question is, how does the cell and the operator utilise these rules for the greatest benefit. In other words, how do we tap into the ZPE force?

Rule 1:

Think about it, what can we do to the cell to make it unstable or out of balance?

Well, here are some,

a. We apply a potential difference (our power source) across a non linear resistance (our chosen liquid)

b. This results in ionisation and electron flow that have different propagation rates.

c. This current flow results in the formation of a magnetic field and if done correctly, (due to the Lorenz law), this field will rotate.

d. The electron density is vastly different on the outer positive and the inner negative due to cylinder surface area.

e. The creation of numerous and very small bubbles. I see the key element here more the bursting (abrupt shock) of the bubbles rather than the creation of same. This I see very closely parallelling the sonoluminescence experiments and the resultant manifestation of blue light that results from these experiments.

f. The creation of compartments or layers of dissimilar physical characteristics. In our case stainless steel and water.

One or more of the above can break the at rest (stable and balanced) condition of the Zero Point Energy (ZPE) force in the vicinity of the cell. The disturbance of the stable state of the ZPE will create a reaction and this reaction coming back via our non linear cell will provide more energy than what was required to instigate the action.

Please note that this reaction can be a ‘push’ or a ‘shove’and the cell can both act as a source or a sink for different applications. Very important.

It is interesting to note that similar over unity devices by Meyer and Puharich also use a method to shock (with voltage pulses) the ZPE, with the result of non linear exchange with matter. In both cases water (thus ion flow in part) was the medium

As mentioned under (e) above, I very much favour the effect that results from the collapsing air bubbles.

Claudia Eberlien (Cambridge University, 1996) talking on sonoluminescence stated that a bubble of the minimum radius can cause an increase in value of a thousandfold and we are only talking about one bubble. I would suggest that this excess energy is from the ZPE field.

Rule 2:

As mentioned above, Eberlien, Mizuno and many other have shown anomalies with sonoluminescence experiments. These simply sated, were an excesses of heat far beyond any possible test equipment or laboratory measurement problems or anomalies.

Eberlien believes that the light (the blue light of Orgone in my view) is being e